Fishing in the Boulder Mountain area near the town of Boulder, Utah

Boulder Mountain is one of the major high-elevation fishing areas in Utah, second only to the Uintah Mountains in northern Utah. Part of Dixie national Forest, the mountain makes up more than half of the Aquarius Plateau and is the highest timbered plateau in North America, with more than 50,000 acres above 11,000 feet.   Note – The communities of Boulder or Escalante are great places for lodging, dining, and other services when fishing in this region.

Boulder Mountain is well-known for its dozens of fishable lakes, but Boulder Mountain’s alpine creeks, streams, and small rivers are abundant with wild trout populations.  The pristine mountain waters offer a serene, and often remote, fishing experience especially for anglers willing to hike a bit. Averaging 15-20 feet wide, local outfitters often recommend short rods and light lines for Boulder Mountain’s smaller waters.

Dozens of backcountry roads and hiking trails lead to Boulder Mountain’s creeks. Scenic Byway 12 on the east side of Boulder Mountain, and Scenic Highway 24 to the north, are generally open year-round. Secondary and backcountry roads to Boulder Top are usually closed except during summer. Boulder Mountain fishing season runs from mid-April to November, depending on the elevation.   More fishing information here.

Stream fishing in Utah's Bryce Canyon & Capitol Reef region.

Boulder Creek flows on the east side of Boulder Mountain’s upper elevations, into Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument. The creek flows through public BLM and Dixie National Forest lands, and through some private land near Boulder. Boulder Creek boasts a varied and abundant trout population. Upper creek waters are typically laden with brook and cutthroat trout, while rainbow and brown trout are more commonly found in the middle and lower ends of the creek. Boulder Creek is accessible by road or by foot.

Calf Creek is a sparkling spring-fed stream located on BLM lands between Escalante and Boulder. Surrounded by a stunning backdrop, the three-mile long stream is known for its copious wild brown trout population. A hefty beaver population also inhabits the stream, making the waters somewhat challenging to fish. Calf Creek can be reached by the same foot trail that leads to Calf Creek Falls.

Deer Creek is another challenging stream because of its remote location, which requires a two- to three-mile hike. But at 10,000 feet elevation, this alpine creek is full of wild brook, cutthroat, and rainbow trout. Deer Creek’s headwaters flow down the east side of Boulder Mountain through Dixie National Forest and BLM public lands, and a small section of privately owned land. To reach Deer Creek from Boulder, take Scenic Byway 12 to Forest Road 554 to the trailhead. Burr Trail Road also leads to Deer Creek.

Just northwest of Escalante in Dixie National Forest, North Creek boasts significant populations of wild brook, cutthroat, and rainbow trout. The stream runs parallel to the unpaved road that leads to Barker Reservoir.

Oak Creek lies within Dixie National Forest, on the east side of Boulder Mountain. Beginning at around 9,400 feet, the creek flows from Oak Creek Reservoir, where significant brook and cutthroat populations thrive, downstream to Capitol Reef National Park, where rainbow trout populate its lower end. Unpaved roads near Oak Creek and Pleasant Creek campgrounds lead to the stream.

Pine Creek offers anglers an opportunity to fish for wild brown trout. The creek flows downward from Boulder Mountain to Box Death Hollow Wilderness Area and into Escalante, where it feeds into the Escalante River. Pine Creek can be reached via Hell’s Backbone Road in Dixie National Forest.

Much like Oak Creek, Pleasant Creek lies mainly within Dixie National Forest, flowing downstream from Boulder Mountain’s east side toward Capitol Reef National Park. Anglers will find a variety of trout in Pleasant Creek, from hatchery-stocked rainbow trout near Pleasant Creek Campground (elevation 8,700 feet) to wild rainbow and brown trout closer to Capitol Reef. Pleasant Creek can be reached by vehicle via Scenic Byway 12, or by unpaved backcountry roads and hiking trails near Capitol Reef National Park.

A view of the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument - from Kaibab Plateau (Grand Canyon North Rim)

The steps were formed over eons through varied erosion rates for each kind of rock and are made of colorful layers of pink, white, grey and vermillion cliffs. One of the best viewing spots where the layers are visible at one time is from Route 89A, just South of Kanab, UT. Drive up onto the Kaibab Plateau and find stopping points along the way to gain a great view of the various stairs within the Grand Staircases.

With so much to see and do, it would take a lifetime just to get started. Few roads have invaded the area and if you’re not afraid to get a little dusty and hit the trail, there are endless surprises around every corner. From day hikes, to overnight multi-day trips or rock climbing and canyoneering, there is something for everyone.

Hiking in Devil's Garden in the Grand Staircase

There are 3 main sections to the monument. The western region (Grand Staircase), which is made up of technicolor cliffs and pink sandstone with carved buttes made by the Paria River; the central region (Kaiparowits Plateau), with some of the most remote country in the lower 48 states with 1000 year old juniper trees and the eastern region (Canyons of the Escalante), a large expanse of Navajo sandstone and deeply carved canyons which snake their way around salmon colored cliffs and Anasazi ruins.

A few of the more popular hikes are Upper and Lower Calf Creek Falls, and if you’ve got a sturdy vehicle or 4 wheel drive, take a drive down Hole in the Rock Road, and visit slot canyons such as Spooky Gulch, Peek-a-boo, or areas such as The Devils Garden or Coyote Gulch.

Some affordable lodging in the area is found in Tropic, Cannonville, Escalante and Boulder. The 30 minute drive between Escalante and Boulder is worth the trip alone, with amazing vistas full of twisted canyons below. For more information go here.

Getting There:
Travel to Scenicy Bway 12 (UT-12). Once on this road, you’ll pass through Tropic, Cannonville, Henrieville, and Escalante. Boulder is another 30 miles past Escalante. You can access portions of the Grand Staircase from Cannonville, Escalante, or Boulder.

An artist's depiction of the Hole In The Rock expedition. This and other scenes may be viewed at an outdoor exhibit at the North end of town in Escalante, Utah.

These families, many already living in southwestern Utah, had been called by LDS Church President John Taylor to settle the southeast corner of Utah. Investigation of a southern route, along what is now the Utah and Arizona border, had been deemed too sandy for wagons. Explorers believed that a new route could be created from near the town of Escalante traveling southeast across the Colorado River and then east along the edge of the San Juan River. The sheer faces of the cliffs and depth of the canyons meant that the Colorado River basin was the last explored region of the continental United States.

This is a view of the upper section of the Hole In The Rock. The waters of Lake Powell can be seen below.

Explorers found a narrow slot on the edge of the cliffs of the Colorado River and they surmised that this was a possible passage-way for the wagons. Platte D. Lyman, leader of the party indicated that if a road could be built, it would be a steep descent in sections and would have to negotiate several sheer precipices. The company was prepared to do blasting of the cliffs to carve a passageway, and then to build a raft that could carry their teams and wagons across the Colorado River.

Members of the company, the Perkins brothers, were coal miners from Wales who were experts in using blasting powder. They were given the nickname of the “blasters and blowers from Wales.” These two men were among several who were lowered over the cliff and dangle in midair to drill holes in the cliff, and fill them with blasting powder. Their daily work continued even during winter blizzards.

Stairs were carved in one section of the Hole In The Rock crevice.

The workers soon realized they would also have to create a section of road along the face of a fifty-foot rock wall. To accomplish this, men drilled a line of vertical holes ten inches deep and about a foot and a half apart. They built a retaining wall by pounding long wooden stakes into the holes and then filled in the resulting area with brush, rocks, and gravel, until a road had been tacked onto the face of the rock.

Another Hole In The Rock expedition leader, Kumen Jones, recorded his description of the events surrounding the descent of Hole In The Rock. He indicated that approximately twenty men and boys would hold long ropes on the back of each wagon. The wheels were brake-locked with chains, to stop the wagons from rolling forward to fast and into the struggling animals that were in the front of each wagon. On January 26, 1880, Platte D. Lyman recorded in his journal: “Today we worked all the wagons in this camp down the Hole and ferried 26 of them across the river. The boat is worked by one pair of oars and does very well.”

Once the wagons were across the river, they began the arduous task of climbing out the other side of the canyon and finding their way onto the place that would become Bluff, Utah. Members of the party described their trek as some of the most desolate and rough country imaginable. This part of the journey also proved difficult as the group encountered other deep canyons and high rock formations that stood in their direct path. One canyon, now called Grand Gulch had to be circumnavigated and a route had to be found up, over, and down a large formation called Comb Ridge. The anticipated six-week journey found the group hungry and worn out throughout the actual six months of the trek. The Hole In The Rock expedition would not have been successfully accomplished without the additional supplies and support obtained from Mormon leaders and the pioneer settlers of Escalante.
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The path that was taken by these pioneers can be partially retraced in the Garfield County Utah area (west side of the Colorado River) by driving your vehicle down the “Hole In The Rock” road which begins just north of Escalante, Utah.  Read more about the road to Hole In the Rock – here.

Horseback riding in the Bryce Canyon Country region.

Kodachrome Basin’s 2.9-mile Panorama Trail leads through the state park’s spectacular rock formations. There are 67 of these multi-hued sandpipes, or chimney rocks, throughout the park. Exploring the Panorama Trail on horseback is one of the most enjoyable ways to discover Kodachrome Basin’s fascinating landscape. The trail initially follows an old wagon route on the ascent to Panorama Point. From your perch you’ll have a view of the vivid red, yellow, orange, pink, and brown sandpipes nestled beneath brilliant blue skies that inspired 1948 National Geographic Society photographers to nickname the park after Kodak’s then-new film. Spur trails to the Hat Shop, White Buffalo Loop, Shakespeare Arch, or Big Bear Geyser Trail offer scenic side trips. Riding the Panorama Trail takes about two hours, longer if you ride the Big Bear Geyser Trail. Local outfitters and a seasonal vendor inside Kodachrome Basin State Park offer guided equestrian tours. Kodachrome Basin State Park is located near Cannonville, about nine miles south of Scenic Byway 12.

The town of Tropic, near Kodachrome Basin and Bryce Canyon, is located along Scenic Byway 12 and is a great starting point for equestrian trips. A local outfitter offers guided horseback rides through the Dixie National Forest. Shorter equestrian trail rides along Scenic Byway 12 lead to Tropic Reservoir and the bristlecone pines.

Family rides are just part of the guided horseback riding adventures in the Bryce Canyon area.

The Escalante River Trailhead runs through the heart of the Escalante Canyons section of the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument. There’s nothing quite like exploring this unspoiled wilderness on horseback. Just west of Scenic Byway 12 the popular equestrian trail gives access to Pine Creek, Death Hollow, Sand Creek, The Gulch, and Boulder Creek for a variety of ride options, even a short ride in/ride out. Explore this sheer-walled, red sandstone sanctuary on horseback amongst the cottonwood trees, ponderosa, sagebrush and wildflowers that dot the riverbanks and side canyons. Highlights along the trail include the 130-foot high Escalante Natural Bridge, a petroglyph panel and Anasazi ruins, Escalante Natural Arch, Skyline Arch. Sections of the trail require crossing the Escalante River so know your horse’s abilities.

Escalante and Boulder are great base camps for hitting the high-altitude equestrian trails. Part of the Dixie National Forest, there are endless opportunities for exploration around the many alpine lakes that dot Boulder Mountain. Thousand Lake Mountain, near Capitol Reef National Park, has red sandstone canyons at its lower slopes and wide, open meadows and ponderosa pine forests at its higher altitudes, all perfect for exploring on horseback. Capitol Reef National Park offers horseback riders unbridled beauty and adventure along diverse terrain, from the rugged slickrock of the Waterpocket Fold to the alpine lakes and remote sandstone canyons. Colorful mesas, spires, and other rock formations set the stage for a rugged equestrian adventure in Capitol Reef’s remote backcountry, while unmarked paths and groomed trails inside the park allow riders of all skill levels a chance to experience the Wild West on horseback. Check with park rangers for equestrian trail guides and conditions.

Flash floods most easily occur in narrow places such as these slot canyons.

Flash floods, caused by a sudden rush of water filling a narrow space, are also a powerful force in a slot canyon’s formation. During a flash flood, rapidly moving water can be heavy with rocks, tree limbs, and other debris which can crash into the canyon walls and congest passageways. Water levels can rise swiftly, taking the past of least resistance into the slot canyon and cascading in raging torrents over the canyon walls, especially during spring run-off and heavy rains.   Flash floods are a serious risk for the many explorers drawn to Bryce Canyon Country’s scenic slot canyons each year. Fortunately, flash floods can usually be avoided with common sense safety practices and an understanding of the conditions that cause them.

Flooding water carves intricate designs in slot canyons.

First, never hike or canyoneer alone, and always let someone know which slot canyon you will be exploring. Register for backcountry permits when required; they are mandatory for a good reason.

Always check the local weather forecast before heading out. If possible, start watching a few days ahead of time—just because the weather is good the day of your planned hike doesn’t mean there aren’t risk factors associated with the past several days. Even if it’s been extremely dry in recent weeks, a sudden rush of water may not absorb quickly into the arid landscape, causing water levels to rise even quicker. Storms that cause flash flooding can actually occur several miles away from a slot canyon, so check the forecast for surrounding areas as well. Even time of day can be a factor, as heavy afternoon thunderstorms are not uncommon in summer and early fall.

Always research the slot canyon ahead of time so you’re aware of potential trouble spots. Evidence of past floods can sometimes be seen on canyon walls. Pay attention to your surroundings during the hike—look for rock ledges, strong tree limbs, and exit points in case you need to make a quick escape. Knowing an escape route ahead of time can save lives.

Remember, never enter a slot canyon on a rainy day. Water accumulates and rises quickly. The longer and deeper the slot canyon, the more risky it can be. Be prepared with proper permits, safety equipment, and other gear.  Physical conditioning and simple preparation can help make your exploration safe and successful so you can truly enjoy Mother Nature’s sculpted grandeur.

Light snow coats the bases of the formations in Bryce Canyon National Park

The Bryce Canyon Winter Festival, hosted by Ruby’s Inn near the entrance to Bryce Canyon National Park, celebrates this winter wonderland with a fun-filled weekend of cross-country ski tours, sled races, sleigh rides, snowshoe tours and races, archery clinics and competitions, photography workshops, snow sculptures, children’s crafts and games, and more.  Learn more about the  Bryce Canyon Winter Festival here.

There's nothing like Cross Country Skiing along Utah's Plateaus and canyon rims.

The Bryce Canyon Winter Festival is a President’s Day weekend tradition and most activities are free, so come enjoy the our next scheduled festival with music, food, snow, and high-altitude fun.

During most of the winter months you’ll find enough snow to enjoy cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and other winter sports or activities. So if you can’t join us for the Winter Festival then come any time for the great scenic views, smaller numbers of visitors and wondrous solitude.   Find specific details on the winter festival here.

Looking west across The Blues below Powell Point and Boulder Mountain

It’s not uncommon to feel a little blue, or to sing the blues, but here’s your chance to see The Blues!   The blues is a very rough section of land that sits approximately 15 miles east of Bryce Canyon just north and west of Scenic Byway 12, and just below Powell Point.

The Blues is a badland of gray-green shale that was deposited in this area at a time when it was covered by an inland ocean.   Much of the soil in this area is quite soft and easily eroded, and offers one of the world’s most continuous records of late Cretaceous life.

Rising above The Blues is Powell Point at an elevation of 10,188 feet.  This scenic point has formations that resemble those at Bryce Canyon.  Powell Point marks the southern end of the Boulder Mountains and the Aquarius Plateau, and can be seen from byway 12 at thee main points of the compass.

To get to The Blues you can travel just east of Henrieville on Scenic Byway 12 and climb northeast toward Escalante.  You will rise up several hundred feet on the byway untill you reach the summit at about 7,600 feet in elevation.  Here’ there is a parking area and overlook for excellent views and photography opportunities.

Slot Canyons are abundant in the Bryce Canyon and Grand Staircase Region

Little Death Hollow is about eight miles one way and enclosed by tall, red sandstone cliffs. It can be tackled as a one-day hike, or as part of a more extensive overnighter to include other Escalante River canyons. Little Death Hollow is fairly remote but it does have a register at the trailhead, which can be reached by driving 19 miles east along the Burr Trail from Boulder, then heading south on Wolverine Loop Road. From there it’s about 12 miles to the trailhead along an unpaved road, including a couple of streams which can be impassable during and after rain. A four-wheel drive vehicle is recommended.

The Circle Cliffs can be seen to the southwest from the trailhead. The trail is well-worn and open initially, across typically dry washes until converging with the south fork. A highlight at this point is a boulder decorated with ancient petroglyphs. Follow the sandy bank of the streambed for about an hour, until the canyon walls begin to taper. Shortly after passing a spring and a few side canyons the streambed becomes rockier. The narrowest section of the slot canyon appears about five miles into the hike, when the ten-foot high canyon walls are only about two feet apart. This section of Little Death Hollow is typically dry but can have pools of muddy, standing water.

Little Death Hollow widens near the Horse Canyon junction, signaling the return loop. The total trip varies between 12 and 16 miles roundtrip, depending how far you hike into Horse Canyon before looping back. This hike will take at least six to eight hours. A side exploration of Wolverine Creek, which passes in part through Wolverine Petrified Wood Natural Area, will add to total hiking time.

Utah Slot Canyons offer spectacular back-country experiences.

Directions: Round Valley Draw. Head south on Cottonwood Canyon Road for about 14 miles. As Cottonwood Canyon Road bears east you’ll pass the turn-off for Kodachrome Basin State Park. Continue over the streambed just shy of Grosvenor Arch, where a nearby signpost signals the turn-off to Round Valley Draw. Head south for about 1.5 miles and cross over a few streams. You can park here near the trail register, or brave the dry creek bed a bit further. A four-wheel drive vehicle is recommended to reach Round Valley Draw.

From the parking area it’s about a 20-minute walk downstream through a usually dry, rocky wash to the mouth of the slot canyon. A three-step drop totaling about 15 feet signals the beginning of the descent into Round Valley Draw. There are a few tree stumps to grab onto, which may actually help more during the return ascent. The ground is typically muddy in this earliest part of the narrows. Thin ridges of strata show the cool effects of erosion on this section of the slot canyon.

The draw narrows quickly after this point, becoming darker and more tunnel-like. Where sunshine bounced off the sculpted curves and ridges of the slot’s opening, now overhanging ridges block much of the daylight. The canyon widens slightly at one point, and then drops around 15 feet; a rope can come in handy at this point. Immediately following comes the deepest and narrowest section of Round Valley Draw, continuing for about 1.5 miles.

Round Valley Draw widens at the merge with Hackberry Canyon to signal the end of the slot canyon. From here hikers can return through two short side canyons or return the way they came. The hike takes about two to four hours to complete, depending on skill level and ground conditions. Never hike in narrow slot canyons when there is impending rain or during a rainstorm.

Winter in Bryce Canyon National Park

Check out our new Bryce Canyon Country newsletter for winter 2011, with information on Bryce Canyon, Scenic Byway 12 – All American Highway, and on the western outlaw Butch Cassidy.